Soumaya, Mexico City
Posted Sep 02, 2019
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Posted Mar 30, 2019
I’m halfway through my two-week trip to Israel and Jordan. This is my second time to Israel and it’ll be my first time to Jordan. As before, I’ve been based in Tel Aviv, taking day trips to Jerusalem, Masada and the Dead Sea. The food, architecture and history here are all incredible. So many cultures have come together here and blended into something both new and ancient.
This afternoon I’ll be hopping onto a 40 minute flight and then taking a ride through the desert to our next destination, Petra. I can’t wait — this is the thing I’ve been looking forward to most on this trip.
Posted Feb 23, 2019
Around the year 2001, I drove down on a whim from Seattle to central Oregon — an area that would later become known for cults and militiamen, but at the time was mostly just a blank space on the map to me. I wanted to explore, take a few photos, and find a place I remembered my grandfather once talking about, called Steens Mountain.
At the end of the second day, barreling down the backside of that mountain toward my motel room and a shower and a bed, a side road flashed into my peripheral vision and then was gone. Something about it grabbed me; I slammed on my brakes and went back to snap this picture.
This remains a favorite photo and a favorite memory — one of those times I ventured out on my own to nowhere in particular, just to see what I could see.
Posted Feb 17, 2019
Posted Feb 17, 2019
Joshua Tree has been on my to-visit list for years, and despite the crowds, it did not disappoint.
I arrived early, I thought, on a Saturday morning in February. But when I pulled over the consult my map, I saw a near-constant parade of cars and trucks streaming in right behind me. So much for that.
Still, like most of the national parks I’ve been to, there’s something electric in the air, crowds or no. It makes me think about what the earth must have looked and felt like just a few thousand years and several billion people ago.
The trees at Joshua Tree are cool, of course, but the rock formations created a sense of place that I’ll never forget. I wanted to see more and soak the place up, but by midday the parking lots were annoyingly full of minivans, and I ended up heading back to Palm Springs for nachos and a margarita instead.
On my way back, the line of cars waiting to get in stretched on for more than a miserable mile.
I can’t wait to return someday and explore Joshua Tree properly — maybe on a Tuesday, or a Wednesday.
Posted Jan 22, 2019
Posted Dec 01, 2018
This trip was a little bit bonkers. To start with, it was only $299 per person (plus a mandatory $100 tip and the fee for a Chinese visa) for a ten-day China tour, including two intercontinental flights, two regional flights, all our lodging, and most meals. It was cheaper to go on this trip than it would have been to stay home.
Six of us signed up, and we were matched with about 35 other people from the same region, making ours a rather large group overall. The itinerary included several days in Beijing before flying south and visiting the cities of Suzhou, Wuxi and Hangzhou and then finishing up in Shanghai and flying home.
How was this deal so ridiculously cheap? We were told that these trips are subsidized by the Chinese government as a way to boost traditional industries, and we did indeed visit many a “factory” (i.e. showroom), though no one was ever required to buy anything.
We visited a jade “factory,” a pearl “factory,” a center of Chinese medicine (where a team of doctors descended on us and within 90 seconds diagnosed everyone with at least one ailment, curable with herbs conveniently available for purchase on the spot), an actually quite beautiful tea plantation, and I know I’m forgetting a few others.
One person I’ll never forget, though, was “Fiona,” the supposed daughter of the owner a jewelry factory outside Shanghai – she gave an Oscar-worthy performance in a pink polyester not-quite-Chanel suit and a perfect schoolgirl bob, telling us how kind we all were, stammering and pretending not to speak much English, and eventually whipping the group into an absolute face-clawing frenzy when she said – damn it! – she would sell us a few special items at cost, whether her father became angry or not, because we were all so kind to her, with our big American hearts — not like those rude Chinese visitors who screamed at her and made her feel bad.
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But it wasn’t all shopping. The tour also took us to the Great Wall; to gorgeous temples and gardens and parks and castles; to the site of the 2008 Summer Olympics; for a ride on the fastest high-speed train in the world; and down into the bowels of a massive underground mall bursting with knock offs of every kind and hundreds of tiny shops where you could choose and get measured for a suit and have it made and delivered to your hotel by checkout time the next morning.
A sunset cruise at Hangzhou bathed us in orange and purple as glowing golden lights turned on in pagodas and temples along the shore. A few days later, a nighttime boat ride on the Huangpu, winding through the center of Shanghai, dazzled us with the futuristic, ever-moving lights and colors of a scene from Blade Runner.
So many more memories… Too many to list. This would have been an amazing deal at many times the price. Flying home, we felt a sense of gratitude at having been lucky enough to have had this amazing experience and adventure together.